Thursday 3 April 2014

Part 4 Project 1 Stage 3b

Stage 3:   An analytical study (2)

An analytical study of the costumes for Papageno and Papagena designed by Zandra Rhodes for the Seattle Opera Company’s production of the Magic Flute in 2010


Title: Costumes for Papageno and Papagena from the Magic Flute
Artist: Zandra Rhodes
Commissioned by: Ian Campbell for the Seattle Opera
Date: 2010
Medium: Various materials including silks and plastic

Source: http://www.seattleoperablog.com/

Rhodes was born in 1940 the daughter of a fitter for the House of Worth in Paris. Her mother was a flamboyant figure and brought Zandra up to value the different and off beat. Rhodes became interested in printed textile design and studied at Medway College and the Royal College of Art in London. (Rhodes, 2005)

For many years Zandra Rhodes has been renowned for her flamboyant and extravagant designs. In 2010 she was approached by Ian Campbell who asked her to consider designing the costumes and set for a new production of Mozart’s Magic Flute. Campbell told her that

He thought it would give complete rein to my imagination. 
(Zandra Rhodes talking on http://www.seattleoperablog.com/)

Rhodes was excited by the challenge and thought her style would lend itself to the theatrical costumes needed to make a spectacular production.  She immersed herself in the music and began to understand what each of the characters required in terms of costume.

Papageno is a bird/man and his partner is Papagena.  Rhodes studied other productions and found the costumes didn’t stand up to robust treatment.  The production she was to design for was to be energetic and the costumes needed to stand up to rough treatment.

Rhodes wanted the costumes to be original, dramatic and accentuate the fantasy of the opera.  The designs were drawn and then a way had to be found to fulfil the ideas – very much concept led. The designs were to be interpreted by the experienced seamstresses of the San Diego Opera costume shop and Zandra acknowledges her debt to them.


Costume design for Papageno – Zandra Rhodes
http://www.seattleoperablog.com/


Rhodes decided that feathers should be the main component of Papageno’s costume but discounted the use of actual feathers because they wouldn’t stand up to the rough treatment they would get.  Instead she developed a silk and plastic fabric which gave a feather like appearance but was  tough and resilient.


Zandra Rhodes showing the "feathers" of Papageno's costume
                 

The costume for Papagena needed to be just as robust as the one for Papageno but Rhodes used a slightly different was to interpret feathers.  She used fringed silk and lots of it to create a froth that had lots of body.
The costume makers were responsible for interpreting Rhodes drawings and the shoulder decorations became little birds’ nests. On the bodice rolled fabric made tendril like shapes.



Costume design for Papagena – Zandra Rhodes

operafresh.blogspot.co.uk

Rhodes sourced her silk in India but was surprised that San Diego was able to supply most of what she wanted.  She was thrilled with the finished designs for the opera - they were much better than she had hoped.  She has since gone on to design for Aida and The Pearl Fishers.


Costumes for Papageno and Papagena – Zandra Rhodes


Bibliography

www.operafresh.blogspot.co.uk
www.seattleoperablog.com.
Rhodes, Z. (2005). A lifelong love affair with textiles. In Z. Rhodes. Camberley: Zandra Rhodes Publications.



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