Wednesday 30 April 2014

Doddington Tapestries




An old map of Doddington Hall and Gardens.
The Hall was started in 1595 and the architect was Robert Smythson
Taken from Doddington website.

Whilst I was doing A Creative Approach I wrote a piece about the Doddington Tapestries. You can see it at:

http://iburkitt.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/part-3-research-point.html


The tapestries (from the 17th century) were taken from the walls and sent back to their birthplace Belgium, for cleaning.  See www.doddingtonhall.com for more history.

I took my work on the tapestries as far as I could at the time.  There was a 3 year wait until funding was available for the conservation work to begin.  That is now underway and this is a little about it.

The tapestries have been set up in the foyer of the newly built Heritage Skills Centre at Lincoln Castle.  They are mounted on linen on two huge frames which were given to the project by Hatfield House who were going to dispose of them.

It was a steep learning curve; the grain of the fabric has to be straight on both the linen and the tapestry or when it is put back on the walls it will twist.

I have visited the project twice and been very impressed by the thinking behind the work.  This is a pretty lengthy website address but there's lots of interesting detail and pictures of how the work is progressing.  I would urge you to have a look.

http://www.lincolnshire.gov.uk/visiting/historic-buildings/lincoln-castle/heritage-skills-centre/doddington-hall-tapestries-blog/doddington-hall-tapestries-blog-(part-1)/121013.article

These pictures are taken from a Doddington Hall publicity leaflet.




You can just see red running stitches at 20cm intervals along the length of the tapestry and this is the area the conservators work within.  When the area is complete the tapestry is rolled on.


Up close



Another worthwhile site to visit is

http://nttextileconservationstudio.wordpress.com/

This site is about the conservation of tapestries but the bit I've linked to is a digital representation of how and why the colours fade over time.  The tapestry referred to is at Hardwick Hall where Bess of Hardwick made her fortune by marrying well (several times) and dealing in tapestries.  Fascinating.

Friday 25 April 2014

Weaving a scarf



I'm not sure quite where this next bit fits so I'll record it separately.
My sister has a birthday soon and I wanted to make her something personal and I decided to weave a scarf.

The main criteria was that it had to be: 

wearable (not too arty)
washable
durable
comfortable
to suit many colourways

I've not woven anything quite so long before and I knew that the warp would "shrink" and the weft would "widen" when it came off the loom but I didn't know by how much.  I erred on the side of caution (no one wants a scarf that too short) and warped up with 44 x 2 metre ends using a 7.5dpi reed.  The finished scarf was in fact 1.9 metres long including the tassells.  

I found a fine silvery yarn (ball band lost) for the warp and used it double.  The 75% cotton, 25% polyester weft was from Linton Tweeds and their online catalogue describes it like this:

This has a white cotton core and has been tightly bound with a pale grey/blue yarn which also has multi colour slubs in soft colours of lilac, yellow, pink and blue. The binding yarn does not cover the whole of the core, and is spaced randomly making the yarn very tactile.



I wove in random stripes and incorporated sari silk in pastel tones to match the cotton boucle.


Showing all the yarns used


I used about 60gms of  boucle and 20gms of silk.  The warp also took about 60gms of yarn. I left long tassells and twisted them like this:

From The Ashford Book of Rigid Heddle Weaving by Rowena Hart.


This is the end result and I'm hoping my sister will like it:






Hart. R., 2002. The Ashford Book of Rigid Heddle Weaving. Ashburton, NZ.
www.lintondirect.co.uk

Sunday 20 April 2014

Part 4 Review

Part 4 review


I’ve enjoyed the opportunity to learn more about artists I already knew and some that were completely new to me.  I have liked the mix of some directed learning and the element of freedom encouraged once the process is established.  I was surprised that I was so familiar with Lucienne Day’s work but without any appreciation of the designer.  Her work is so modern. I love it.

When I have been able to choose artists myself I have tried by and large to select people whose work I have seen and enjoyed.  I find I relate better to work I have really looked closely at. 

Leon Bakst, Ethel Mairet, Magdalena Abakanowicz were new to me.  I like the exuberance of Bakst’s work very much and I appreciate the sheer hard work of Ethel Mairet.  Before I can really feel confident about an opinion I need to understand more about Abakanowicz – it leaves me a bit cold right now.  I have found that as I gain more understanding, particularly of the context an artist works in, so my opinions change.  A case in point is my initial response to Ptolemy Mann.

The questions given as a framework were useful as a way to approach the tasks.  I felt able to wander a little if the fancy took me. 

I think it’s quite hard to know what the historical context you’re working in is. Being retired I have no need to think about a career and making my mark; I can simply follow my inclination.  If I had been Lucienne Day I may well have looked for a niche for my talents to fill.  I can well understand why Judy Chicago chose to use her skills to make important feminist points.  The artist needs to have some resilience to be so controversial. 

I spend quite some time researching because I enjoy the excitement of finding new things.  Looking at the work of all sorts of artists maintains my enthusiasm and is sometimes the starting point for my own work.


I have used the citation tool on Word for the first time in this piece of work and it makes a chore very much easier.  When I was doing lots of research it either wasn’t available or I completely missed it!  Citing items from the web just wasn’t around 25 years ago so I’ve had to pay special attention to that.  The web is a wonderful tool but it is easy to be led astray and perpetuate inaccurate information.  I try very hard to use only reliable sources and therefore enable anyone looking at my work to feel secure about its validity.

My sketchbook has taken something of a back seat but I've made use of it to experiment with ideas if I've felt inclined.

Part 4 Project 2 Stage 2

Project 2

Stage 2 

Analyse three pieces of work

I’ve chosen three very different pieces of work to take a closer look at.  I’ve not found it easy to get information about some of the work.


Ptolemy Mann
Kings Mill Hospital in Mansfield. 

Ptolemy Mann is an acclaimed weaver but the work I’m going to look at is a development of her weaving. I’m going out on a bit of a limb here because this certainly isn’t textile work. However, Mann can see clear links between weaving and what I’m going to look at -architecture:

There has always been a link between architecture and my work - weaving and architecture are both constructed and are about the interaction of vertical and horizontal structures. Colouring the facades of buildings is like making a giant weaving, but using glass or powder-coated metal instead of thread to build up the blocks of colour. (Woolf, 2012)

I’m going to apply the same investigation that I have used previously but to the coloured design of Kings Mill Hospital in Mansfield. 

www.ptolemymann.com/kings-mill-hopsital.html


Swanke Hayden Connell Architects and Skanska invited Ptolemy Mann to design an eye catching external facade for Kings Mill Hospital.  The work began in 2006 and was completed in 2011.

The request was made with the aim of giving the hospital an accessible and welcoming appearance that would reduce anxiety particularly for young patients.  Mann’s website calls it “Artwork on the Landscape”.
From particular positions, along the bypass for instance, the building looks imposing but not overbearing – there’s an element of shiny fun about it.

Mann used her expert knowledge of colour dynamics to create panels in a huge range of colours in a variety of materials.  Spandrel is a glass especially developed for architectural installations by Pilkington and this was painted to Mann’s specification. There was powder coated metal, transparent film and coloured render all giving different effects.

Kings Mill Hospital External colour specification – Ptolemy Mann


 Mann described how she approached the work to Diana Woolfe (2012). 


At Kings Mill Hospital it made sense to reflect what was happening internally on the facade – identifying different zones on the building. I approached it like a weaver introducing tonality and gradations of colour across the facade. The building has three different towers and I gave each one a separate colour – green, magenta and blue - and made the entrance area a warm, welcoming orange colour. It was a way of turning the building itself into a work of art, making it look exciting and colourful and, crucially, not too like a hospital.

I haven’t met a soul who disapproves.





My next two pieces are from a wonderful day I had at Salts Mill last autumn.  To give some idea of the scale of the space I have included two images from the Cloth and Memory 2 Catalogue (Millar, 2013)







Salts Mill – then and now (Millar, 2013)
















Karina Thompson
1 hour’s production = 1 ½ miles = 15 lengths

I was lucky enough to go on a study visit to Salts Mill last autumn.  The exhibition was Cloth and Memory 2 curated by Lesley Millar.  After the curators tour there was a seminar including three artists with Lesley Millar in the chair.  

Karina Thompson was one of the artists and she made a big impression on me.  Thompson was one of a large group of artists who Millar had invited to respond to the space the Mill’s Spinning Room offered.

The work Karina exhibited at Cloth and Memory 2 was “1 hour’s production = 1 ½ miles = 15 lengths”. 


1 hour’s production = 1 ½ miles = 15 lengths – Karina Thompson (Millar, 2013)


This work was Thompson’s personal response to the 168m vast empty space that was once the Spinning Room at Salts Mill.  Thompson writes

This piece seeks to visualise a physical response to my first experience of visiting the Spinning Room at Salts Mill.....For me the first time I entered the room I had an overwhelming desire to run the length of it.  (Millar, 2013) 

The only thing that stopped her running there and then was the pressure of being with strangers.  Thompson did return however and

......ran 1 ½  miles representing an hour’s cloth production. (Millar, 2013)

She had made various preparations; she wore a heart monitor and had collected enough mill dust to print her running footprints on paper as she ran.  The data collected is used in this 100 x 0.5 metre embroidery.  The resulting work represents her run. Describing her very literal work Thompson says

The red ECG line shows how my heart rate went from 68bpm to 181bpm.  The embroidered footprints are based on those prints taken on the run.  The ultrasound triangles show how the chambers of my heart open and close on a heartbeat. (Millar, 2013)

The grey colours are very much those we would find on an ultrasound monitor. The ECG  is shown in the crucial heartbeat red.

Interestingly, Thompson related in the seminar the story of the tacking stitches she used in her preparation.  She began taking them out until someone pointed out that they were in fact running stitches whereupon she re-stitched them.

The materials Thompson used were woollen cloth, a non woven stabiliser, rayon, polyester, lurex and metallic thread.

Thompson enjoys the freedom her computer programmed sewing affords.  It gives her opportunities undreamt of 25 years ago:

I can programme stitches with pinpoint accuracy, fill areas with decorative satin stitch and build images with precision....technology is allowing me to create and adapt imagery in a way that I never expected. (Millar, 2013)

Thompson describes the digital technique:

Imagery or text is initially cleaned up and edited in Photoshop before being uploaded in to Pfaff's 5D software. Here the embroidery can be programmed and further changes made. I use a Pfaff Creative Vision machine to stitch work out. I am particularly keen to challenge the way both the software and hardware suggest the embroidery is created. (Thompson, 2014)


Ultrasound heartbeat (Thompson, 2013)



...and interpreted in stitch

I have looked at Thompson’s website and find this quite a departure from her earlier slashed work.  I have read that her digital work is relatively new  and that she is working in collaboration with healthcare professionals (Thompson, 2014).

I find the development through

initial response to a space,
ideas generated
completed textile piece

fascinating and all the pieces of work in Cloth and Memory 2 went through this process. I particularly like Thompson’s work because it demonstrates such energy in a space where the urgency and rush appears to have gone.


Diana Harrison

Handkerchiefs - 4 x 2.5 metres

I’ve chosen to look at another artist who responded to the salts Mill challenge but in a quite different way (in fact there were no two even remotely similar).

Harrison’s initial response was to admire the beautiful, architectural space and then her imagination took over and she populated it with people, machines, noise and smells.  She seems to have great empathy for the workforce who

their entire working lives, lived in one place, Saltaire, with its philanthropic, support/living/work system (Millar, 2013).

Harrison was intrigued by the flagstones that had absorbed generations of Spinning Room life but were still robust, in her words indestructible. She was interested in the patterns and the way the large, grey pieces of stone fitted together. It was this that made her want to do something that would be viewed at ground level.
Harrison made a collection of handkerchiefs.  She collected them from all over the place and the only things they had in common was that they were square and cotton. They were a metaphor for the flagstones

Each with its own past; used, washed, worn or boxed, kept for special occasions, given as gifts, hand embroidered or monogrammed. (Millar, 2013)




Harrison’s hankies (Millar 2013)

This symbolism extended to the way the handkerchiefs were stitched together (with a loose fishbone stitch) the size decreed where the cotton squares would fit just as the flagstones would have years ago when Salts Mill was new.

Harrison dyed all the squares black and the handkerchiefs became more uniform; their distinguishing feature now was the quality of the original fabric and any embellishment.  Harrison then worked on the squares individually discharging the dye and making the squares different once again.



Handkerchiefs – Diana Harrison
http://www.craftscouncil.org.uk



According to Lesley Millar (2013) this work is not typical of Harrison.  She is renowned for her quilting and this represents something very different.  Although the work was laid on the floor of the Spinning Room it was very evident that no-one but no-one was going to walk on the squares – there was a sort of reverence shown towards the piece.  I feel this is what Harrison was demonstrating in her use of symbolism – a reverence for the memory of what went before.

Attracted to the large flagstones in the spinning room, Harrison created a covering for the floor from handkerchiefs. Curator Lesley Millar writes about Harrison’s work: ‘The ubiquitous paper hankie has rendered the cloth handkerchief as almost a memory, but back in the heydays of production at the mill, a ‘proper’ cloth handkerchief would have been a luxury item, only for use on Sundays and special days. The rest of the time it would have been a piece of rag or nothing. The second-hand handkerchiefs Diana Harrison has collected, dyed and sewn together were all once prized possessions, and through her attention they are now precious again. Laid out on the floor, as they are in the exhibition, they are like so many memorials to the unknown owner/worker.’ (Millar 2013


Matthew Harris

I admire Matthew Harris’s use of cloth, paper and thread and the way he incorporates musical themes.  I really wanted to look in detail at a piece of his work but the information available for his textile pieces is scanty in terms of my analysis.  I can find sizes but that’s about it.  

The only piece with any detail is “Scorched - A Graphic Score”.  This is a twelve metre long piece cut and burnt into a wooden wall at Colston Hall  (Harris, 2014). Having just looked at  architecture I feel I have to rethink my desire to analyse work from Harris.  Shame.


Scorched - A Graphic Score – Matthew Harris at Colston Hall, Bristol



Just for information here’s what Harris says about this work

Wrapping around the ground floor performance space, Scorched is a twelve metre long Graphic Score that has been cut and burnt into a wooden wall. The effect of the process is to create a drawn mark that is akin to that created by a number of textile processes such as Shibori and Ikat; and reflects those marks used by Matthew Harris in his more familiar work with paper and cloth.

Using the language of Graphic and experimental music notation, ‘Scorched’ has been designed to act as both a backdrop to performers and an interpretive starting point for possible future work by musicians, dancers and singers.

“I want to bring a drawn, graffiti like, human scale mark into what is quite a large, open architectural space and to create something that whilst not a textile, has some of the visual qualities of one. The idea is to create something, which performers might respond to in some way with sound or movement. A drawing/score whose marks and signs can be interpreted as indications of certain sounds, musical phrases or physical movements.” (Harris, 2014)


Bibliography

 http://www.craftscouncil.org.uk/.
www.pillowmagazine.com.
Harris, M., 2014. http://www.matthewharriscloth.co.uk/.
Mann, P., 2014. http://www.ptolemymann.com/kingsmillhopsital.html
Millar, L., 2013. In: Cloth and Memory 2. Salts Mill.
Thompson, K., 2014. http://www.karinathompson.co.uk/.
Woolf, D.,  http://www.themaking.org.uk/.




Saturday 19 April 2014

Part 4 Project 2 Stage 1 Mary Walker Phillips

Project 2

Stage one- Research six artists or designers

Mary Walker Phillips
Top of Form
Bottom of Form

Mary Walker Phillips in 1985









I have only recently become aware of Mary Walker Phillips and have never seen any of her work in exhibition but I admire what I have seen on the internet and hope someday to know much more about her work. The following (edited) obituary was published in the New York Times on November 20th 2007.  It was written by Margalit Fox.

Mary Walker Phillips, a prominent textile artist who took the utilitarian craft of knitting and gave it bold new life as a modern art form to be displayed on the walls of museums around the world, died on Nov. 3 at her home in Fresno, Calif. She was 83. A long-time resident of Greenwich Village, Miss Phillips had lived Fresno in recent years.

For centuries, knitting was a homey pastime, ideal for making sweaters, socks and hats. It was less a creative art than a re-creative one: women — for it was nearly always a woman who wielded the needles — typically worked from printed patterns, following a set of instructions to produce a finished garment of predetermined design and dimensions.

By the mid-20th century, other textile traditions, like weaving, had crept into the realm of fine art, hung in galleries and reviewed seriously by critics. But knitting, consigned to the hearth, lagged far behind.

What Miss Phillips did, starting in the early 1960s, was to liberate knitting from the yoke of the sweater. Where traditional knitters were classical artists, faithfully reproducing a score, Miss Phillips knit jazz. In her hands, knitting became a free-form, improvisational art, with no rules, no patterns and no utilitarian end in sight.

Traditional materials also went out the window: where garment knitting generally involves wool or cotton, Miss Phillips’s huge, abstract, diaphanous hangings might also use linen, silk, paper tape or fine metal wire. They sometimes incorporated materials like bells, seeds and bits of mica.

Considered one of the two or three most influential knitters of the second half of the 20th century, Miss Phillips was a fellow of the American Craft Council, an honor bestowed on only the most distinguished artisans. Exhibited worldwide, her work (which also includes avant-garde macramé) is in the permanent collections of major museums including the Museum of Modern Art, the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum and the Art Institute of Chicago.

Mary Walker Phillips was born in Fresno on Nov. 23, 1923, to a prominent family descended from California pioneers. A traditional knitter in childhood, Miss Phillips — to the end of her life, she preferred “Miss” — began her artistic career as a weaver. After studying at the Cranbrook Academy of Art in Michigan, she worked in San Francisco and Switzerland, weaving fabric for clothing, upholstery and table linens. She later opened her own studio in Fresno.

Just how accomplished Miss Phillips was at the loom can been judged from a telegram she received in April 1948:

kindly bring cotton material for weaving thirty five yards drapes natural deep rose lavender and dark brown. also gold metallics.

It was signed “Mrs. Frank Lloyd Wright.” Miss Phillips spent three weeks at Taliesin West, the Wrights’ home in Scottsdale, Ariz., weaving the family’s drapes and tablecloths.

In 1960, Miss Phillips returned to Cranbrook, completing her bachelor’s degree and, in 1963, earning a master of fine arts, concentrating in experimental textiles. Around this time, a friend, the noted fabric designer Jack Lenor Larsen, suggested she experiment with knitting as a medium for contemporary art.

Miss Phillips, who settled in New York in a yarn-filled apartment on Horatio Street, took up her needles once more. But what sprang from them was like no knitting ever seen. Using techniques that went beyond traditional knit and purl stitches, she created pieces that looked like delicate tapestries or vast expanses of lace, with transparent latticework, open areas and whorled textural patterns. Hung away from the wall and lighted well, her work threw off a dramatic counterpoint of shadows.

Miss Phillips, who was also widely known as a writer and teacher, taught for many years the New School for Social Research. Her books include “Creative Knitting: A New Art Form” (Van Nostrand Reinhold), considered groundbreaking when it was published in 1971; “Knitting Counterpanes: Traditional Coverlet Patterns for Contemporary Knitters” (Taunton Press, 1989); and “Step-by-Step Macramé,” (Golden Press, 1970), regarded as rehabilitating a much-maligned art form.

Despite decades of acclaim as a maker of high art, Miss Phillips was known to have knit the occasional wearable object. She made fine argyle socks for her brother, for instance, as he recalled in a telephone interview last week. She had made him a pair, Mr. Phillips said, as recently as the 1950s. (Fox, 2007)

 I just love the idea of “knitting jazz”.


Could this be knitted jazz? I think so.
(Straker, 2011)

I found a very scholarly article by Jennifer L. Lindsay under the auspices of the University of Nebraska- Lincoln.  It is based on her Master’s thesis (Lindsay, 2012).  Her work is called “Mary Walker Phillips:Creative Knitting and the Cranbrook Experience” and was completed in 2012.  She says it is:

The first scholarly examination of Mary Walker Phillips and her work (Lindsay, 2012)

Obviously the emphasis of the work is on the influence of her time at Cranbrook:

From 1946-47 and again from 1960-63 Phillips attended Cranbrook Academy of Art in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan to study contemporary weaving and textiles. Phillips education in contemporary weaving and textile design at ....the Academy shaped her vision and her work throughout her life. (Lindsay, 2012)

Cranbrook lay emphasis on the individual approach and experiential and experimental learning. (Lindsay, 2012) This suited Phillips learning style and gave her licence to try out her avant garde ideas without fear of censure.

Knitted Wall Hanging, 1965
(Photograph courtesy of Patricia Abrahamian) .
Phillips was one of Cranbrook’s first students to work off loom; in autumn 1962 at a time when little had been done in experimental knitting. She used experimental materials as well; linen, silk as well as other things.  Phillips had little time for machine knitting.  She found that hand knitting


was most appealing because its irregularities could never be duplicated by machine. (Lindsay, 2012)

In her conclusion Lindsay says

In a wonderful, direct and unpretentious and informal style Mary Walker Phillips taught twentieth century knitters how to make knitted fabrics with or without patterns. (Lindsay, 2012)


Bibliography

Fox, M., 20.11.2007. http://www.nytimes.com/.
Lindsay, J. :., 2012. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/.
Lindsay, J. L., 2012. Mary Walker Phillips and the Knit Revolution of the 1960's. Washington DC
Straker, C., 2011. http://clairestraker.wordpress.com/.